Why I Don’t Work with the “Korean Technique” in Lash Lifting

Right now, the so-called “Korean technique” in lash lifting is hugely trending.
Videos, tutorials everywhere — “look how fast and how beautiful.”
I’m absolutely in favor of trying new things and continuing to grow.
Still, I personally don’t work with this technique.
And it’s not because it’s “bad.”
It’s because, on a process level, I have some questions about it.
Let’s be honest: what are we actually doing here?
A lash lift — whether classic or “Korean” — is essentially a chemical restructuring.
Not on the hair on your head, but on the lashes.
We alter the hair structure on a chemical level to create a new shape.
That means:
We’re not just working “visually” — we’re affecting the internal structure of the lash.
And that’s exactly why:
- the hair becomes more vulnerable at that moment
- every step must be intentional and controlled
Where it doesn’t feel quite right to me
When I look at different versions of the “Korean technique,” I often see the same thing:
The hair is already softened — and in this state, mechanical manipulation continues (pulling, brushing, etc.).
For me, this is a crucial point.
Because softened hair:
- stretches more easily
- deforms faster
- reacts more sensitively to stress
Which, in the worst case, can lead to permanent structural changes.
This isn’t about whether someone works “cleanly” or not.
It’s about the fact that this phase is particularly sensitive.
It’s not about “better or worse”
I don’t judge techniques as good or bad.
For me, three things matter:
- Can the process be fully controlled?
- Do you understand the current state of the hair?
- Can you predict how the result will behave later?
If not, the result isn’t reliable enough.
Why I stick to the classic technique
The classic technique is where I have full control over both the process and the result.
I don’t need a new method to achieve a beautiful, stable curl.
And that’s what ultimately matters to the client.
About the “wow effect”
Not every lash is suitable for an extreme lift directly from the root.
And anatomically, it’s not always the best choice.
Technically, though, it can be made possible.
For example:
- choosing an unsuitable silicone pad
- ignoring safety rules and applying products directly at the root
Yes, the “wow effect” when the client opens their eyes is definitely there.
But what matters isn’t the first impression.
It’s:
- how the lashes grow out
- whether they twist or point in different directions
- whether they’re still comfortable after a few weeks
A point many underestimate
Hair structure differs from person to person.
What works perfectly for one type of lash may not work at all for another.
And European lashes, in particular, are often finer and more sensitive — they can be over-processed more easily.
By the way, this is something we also know from skincare.
Once, at a trade fair in Ho Chi Minh City, we tried some face masks —
and afterward, our faces were chalk-white compared to our tanned bodies.
Should lash artists learn new techniques?
Absolutely: yes.
Anyone who wants to grow and stay competitive should remain open to new things.
But:
Learning doesn’t mean watching a few Instagram videos and copying them.
Even though the foundation is the same — working with the hair structure —
the differences lie in the details.
And this “it doesn’t look that hard, I’ll just try it” approach has often led to… less-than-great results.
So if you’re getting into lash lifting — no matter the technique — do it properly:
- with a trainer
- with an understanding of what happens inside the hair
- and with a clear awareness of what you’re doing — and why
Not just based on social media clips.
Because the difference between:
“it looks nice”
and
“I control the result”
is huge.
Conclusion
The “Korean technique” is absolutely valid and has its place.
But for me personally, it’s not a tool I choose to work with.
Because in the end, the client doesn’t care about the technique — only about the result:
stable, beautiful, and comfortable in everyday life.
In our store, you can find professional products for lash lifting — reliable solutions for consistent, high-quality results.